Elevated rails to Ella

Bunga was busy in the garden after a brief photoshoot. He was the younger of the two. He liked toy cars for a long time like any other boy. He bought it at Ramboda.

It was a wooden replica of Sri Lankan Auto rickshaw/tuk-tuk with a black top. It was not worth the money. The jelled joints came out the next day itself. Bunga was upset. Rangamani does not know how to fix it. Tushara tied it with a rubber band. Despite a simple solution, the auto-rickshaw appeared as good as fixed. There was a bright smile on Bunga’s face.

Their next hop would be at Ella, another hilly town located 60 KMs away. This stretch of the travel would be covered by a mountain journey. This is one of the scenic train routes in the world as per Sri Lankan tourist information. That was similar to Mettupalayam to Ooty heritage rail route of India. They reached the nearby railway station at Nanu Oya town to catch the afternoon train.

Nuwara Eliya to Nanu Oya
Nuwara Eliya to Nanu Oya

The short downhill dropped them at the station. Rangamani bought a few snacks in the shop outside the station. The owner was a Tamilian.

Shop keeper: “Are you coming from oor (India)?”

Rangamani: “Yes”

Shop keeper: “I visited our oor as well. I went to Trichy, Madurai. What’s your native place, brother?”

Rangamani: “Pudukkottai”

Shop keeper: “I see. Don’t know where is it”.

Rangamani: “Do you know Kattabomman? King of Pudukkottai betrayed him. Now you know…”

Shop keeper: “Our place does not differ from that. Same betrayal. Same story”

Rangamani knew what he meant. Those who know about the racial unrest between Sinhalese and Sri Lankan Tamils can understand it. He did not want to continue with that discussion. Instead, he asked the shop keeper “How much is this coconut biscuit?”

நானு ஓயா
Nanu Oya

The railway station resembled the railway station of Mettupalayam, Tamilnadu, India. Colonial style boards, deserted rail tracks…

நானு ஓயா ரயில் நிலையம் | Nany Oya Railway Station
நானு ஓயா ரயில் நிலையம் | Nany Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station

They were waiting for the train. There comes a shocking news. The elder boy Junga alerted Ranga that Bunga had missed his toy train in the garden of the lodge itself.

Nuwara Eliya 10 Nanu Oya Station 4

Alas, what bad news it was! It was so sad to see the disappointment on baby Bunga’s face. It is too far to go back. They can not catch the train. Rangamani told Bunga to ignore it and continue the journey. He assured him to get a new toy later. Bunga accepted in half a mind. But it was a sad moment for them. That tragedy was blown up in the air as the train arrived.

கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி வண்டி
Elevated rail

That train journey took three to four hours. It took its passengers through lush green tea gardens, hill tops, valleys, and floating clouds.

கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி காமாட்சி வண்டி
Elevated rail
கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி காமாட்சி வண்டி
கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி காமாட்சி வண்டி
Elevated rail
மலை வழித்தடம்
Mountain route

Tushara had booked a first class ticket for them. This train looked to be Chinese made as per the public documentation available on internet. There were seven boxes running with kada-kada sound of Indian trains. The windows are bigger enough to enjoy the sceneries and get excited.

Tourists post plenty of dangerously photographed pictures on Instagram. But few of them met with accidents. During their trip, a European lady had scratched her leg and created a scene.

Vendors sell sliced pineapple strips, mango, butter corn, freshly prepared rice, and curry, chilli bajjies etc. We can see new items at every station.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=QAtCC_VSCQ8%3Fversion%3D3%26rel%3D1%26showsearch%3D0%26showinfo%3D1%26iv_load_policy%3D1%26fs%3D1%26hl%3Den%26autohide%3D2%26wmode%3Dtransparent

The entire route was covered with clouds! You will find beautiful hills and dense jungle intersected by tea estates, hillocks, old bridges, waterfalls and hamlets. When the train passed through the tracks, local kids cheered at the level crossings.

The travel took three and a half hours. Tushara came by road and welcomed them at Ella station. As they climbed into the van, Junga saw the toy auto lying in the seat. He shrieked at his brother, “Hey Bunga, here is your auto-rickshaw”. Tushara went the extra mile to go back to the lodge at Nuwara Eliya to take the toy car. It was such a touching moment for Rangamani. He thanked his chauffeur many times.

எல்ல ரயில் நிலையம் | Ella Railway Station
Ella Railway Station

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Drizzling Nuwara Eliya

Thangamani woke up in the morning. It took some time for her to realize where she was. Mobile phone displayed 5:30am. But it was so dark. She felt shivering due to 14° C. She covered herself well inside her razai and continued to resume her elongated-sweet-sleep of the morning. She used to do it since her childhood. Sometimes she used to sleep until her mom shouted. The glasses of the windows of her neighbor used to vibrate with ‘drrrrrr‘ sounds at those wake-up calls. Neighborhood aunty used to retaliate from her window “Ey Thangamani, why don’t you get up, before your mom’s voice cracks my window glasses”.

Her sweet-lazy mood of that morning was dispelled when she realized that her hubby was not in his bed. ‘Crazy chap, Did he roll and fell down from his bed? Seems… mhoom… no.’

She thought he might be in the toilet. Her instinct refuted her guess. She was so tired the previous day after the long-but-lovely uphill from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya. They enjoyed the Ramboda Falls, had nice food there, shot some lovely photos at Damro tea factory on their way.

நுவரெலியா
Nuwara Eliya

When the Sinhalese lady was explaining the techniques behind tea preparation, Thangamani started oscitating. Her eyes filled with tears, as she tried to control her yawning! It may be easy for her to control her husband Rangamani, but not her yawning, you know! At last that poor lady yawned with her nose, while closing her lips tight and bulged like hanuman. Finally they left from the factory after buying some tea bags.

After a few sharp U-bends, they entered Nuwara Eliya, the little England of Sri Lanka. Tushara lowered all glasses of their van so that the below-twenty-degree breeze could fill their wind pipes. The cold weather brings out the kiddish nature of adults. All their faces were smiling as they drove along the bank of Gregory Lake.

Gregory Lake

Tushara said that Gregory Lake should be full of tourists by that time. You won’t believe. The lake was empty. The clouds flew down into the snowy water to make it a resemblance to Manosarovar, the heavenly lake.

Gregory lake, Nuwara Eliya

When the vehicle was stopped at a parking space, there were no other vehicles. The road was deserted. They went for a boat ride, during when the cloud entered their boat. Thangamani felt piercing cold. She was smiling and made fun of the younger Bunga in excitement.

Gregory lake

They had only 15 or 20% visibility when they ended their boating. There were no tourists to rent a boat. All those boats were stacked idle. A horseman waited for them. It was so sad for Thangamani to reject his offer. There were no people on the road. The night curfew was still in effect. Terrorists caused a curfew in 2019. Corona forced another curfew in 2020. Economy-goofed-curfew in 2022! These curfews caused heavy losses to the Sri Lankan tourist industry.

After reaching their hotel, Thangamani went to bed immediately. Later Rangamani and Junga brought hot chapatis and dhal curry. She was asleep when she was eating.

Tangamani wondered, where Rangamani went early in the morning, that too in a foreign land. She forced herself to switch on the lights and got down from her bed. Bathroom was empty. She opened the door. The corridor looked empty and haunting.

She felt herself as the Sita of Ashok Vatika (the place where Maharani Sita was held as a prisoner by Lankan King Ravana). After seeing Junga and Bunga on the bed, she murmured “Yes they are the vanara forces”. But where was her Rama, then?

When she locked and latched the door, a hissing sound alerted her. Was it a snake? She looked around and followed the direction of that haa-iii-zzz sound. It lead her to the balcony door, which was opened very slowly and carefully by her.

நுவரெலியா

Rangamani was standing there, with his mouth widely opened in upper case O shape. He blew air in the cold weather with the hissing sound. It came out as a fog/smoke from his mouth like a Nigiris steam engine. He did it again and again sincerely. He was blowing air with ah-ah-ah and huh-huh-huh sounds to create different patterns.

“What happened? Can’t fall asleep?” asked Thangamani.

Rangamani’s eyes opened wide on seeing Thangamani. With her head popping on the sides of the door, she might be looking like King Janaka‘s daughter Sita. As Tamil poet Kamban says, அண்ணலும் நோக்கினான்: அவளும் நோன்கினாள். (The prophet looked too: she nodded too.). Thangamani did not nod, by the way.

“Hey Thangamani. See this ah..”. He opened his mouth again to showcase his steaming achievement. Rangamani watched his performance impatiently. She said “wonderful” and rammed the door.

Later, she appeared again on the balcony with tea cups. Both were waiting for the sunrise!

கதிர் எழுகை
Sun rise from the highest peak of Sri Lanka
Nuwara Eliya 01 Peak

உருளைக் கிழங்கு
Potato field
நுவரெலியா
நுவரெலியா
தாத்தா பூ

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Collation of traditional food at Ramboda

Rangamani and Thangamani enjoyed their kids doing an electrifying walk with Tushara on their way back from the temple of tooth, Kandy. They went on a round inside Kandy City. The city is fit for street photography. The train station, markets, high street, university campus etc. There it was. The increase in elevation of the road was obvious. Left side of the road was fully covered with bushes and lands; right side was covered with sloping lands. Yes, they entered into a ghat road that leads to Nuwara Eliya, a not-to-be-missed hill station in Sri Lanka.

To Nuwara Eliya

The mountain journey was pleasant. How green the way it was. Forests, bushes, farm fields and tea estates. Motion sickness is a family asset of Rangamani’s family. When they entered into van, their mood was on its high, as the Indian stock market spiked due to the buying of domestic institutions. When they get motion sickness, the spirit will go down, as the bearish stock index crashes when foreign investors sell off.

Scenic road to Nuwara Eliya

Rangamani attempted different tactics in his past to nullify his nausea.

  1. In one of the novels he read, the fisher men chewed betel-nuts to curtail his vomiting sense. Ranga tried it during one of his trips to a hill station. He was very confident during that trip. Alas, it went. His guts started moving like a python during the downhill. He took more and more betelnuts as a hopeful Vikramaditya!
  2. Another time, some of his friends suggested not to take rice meal before the trip.
  3. Tushara suggested one other idea this time. Soda drinks – yes, the same junk food like coke/pepsi – may reduce the nausea.

Though he tried to act as if he was fine, he prayed to vazhi-vidu-vinayaka for a vomit-free travel! He wanted to borrow that pepsi bottle from Junga. But his ego refused.

Coming back, the road to Nuwara Eliya was scenic. There were small streams cut across their way. The deep valley on the other side adorned them. The ridges with tea plantations were railing on both sides. The brownish and blackish clouds were floating above them. It must have been very cold for Hanuman when he flew down to Sri Lanka.

Scenic road to Nuwara Eliya

Going to Nuwara Eliya was a long journey. They stopped the vehicle a few times, to purchase fruit at a roadside shop, to get relaxed from their nausea.

Ramboda

There was a trishanku swargam (mid-way heaven) called Ramboda. The vehicle was stopped at an antique shop. From the terrace of the shop, they can enjoy the scenic view of Ramboda Falls on one side and the beautiful valley and farm fields on the other side. The clouds were hovering around the hill tops. To add more memory to this scene, the clouds sprinkled drizzles all over. “Like this, there was a scene in Kamba Ramayana… ” Rangamani tried to add pepper and salt to the scene, but he subsided when Thangamani cleared her throat.

Ramboda falls

Younger Bunga bought a wooden auto-rickshaw/tuk-tuk. It was super expensive. (close to a thousand Indian rupees). Elder Junga bought some Sri Lankan magnets for his tuition teacher.

ரம்போதா - Ramboda
Ramboda falls

Traditional food center

There was a road-side eatery (Hela Boujun) run by a women self-help group. This food court is the theme of this post.

தின்று தீர்க்கப்போகிறேன். உணவகம், ரம்போதா, Ramboda
Hela Boujun, Traditional food center, Ramboda

They had umpteen varieties of traditional Sri Lankan or Indian foods. They had different varieties of tea, soups also.

Rangamani in food court

Rangamani shrieked at the food items with laughter “puttu, appam, vadai, murukku, cutlet” like Pakoda Kadhar. Thangamani and kids felt a dread. They wanted to rescue him from that place, but it was too late. He jumped the steps like a Guindy racing horse, bought a jackfruit cutlet and Bael flower tea. He asked them to join as well. He was in an bewitched state like Jyothika transformed into Chandramukhi due to her multiple personality disorder.

Junga got an aappam and he found it was delicious too. Thangamani chose puttu. Bunga has been given an idiyappam. Rangamani had this strange habit of ordering weird names on menu cards. Thangamani was happy too, as she was contemplative about her kids’ behavior with outside food until that lovely moment.

உணவகம், ரம்போதா, Ramboda
Puttu

Tushar said that Indians, who visit Sri Lanka, pack their lunch with them. So, he said, chauffeurs like him need to be flexible in their lunch plans. But Rangamani and Thangamani decided not to do the same on this trip. They were happy to suffice their desire to taste local food. So this lunch was sweet for their minds and tongues. While their ear lobes were chilled with the breeze, their tummies were filled with ample food.

பலாப்பழ கட்லெட். ஒன்றே ஒன்று உங்களுக்காக. உணவகம், ரம்போதா, Ramboda
Jackfruit cutlet
Snacks

During your trip between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya, this is an eatery you should not miss!

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