A Tale of Two Lands: Rathi & Manmadan in Kudumiyamalai and Javanese Shadow Puppetry

Though just a few kilometers from my native place, I haven’t visited Kudumiyanmalai (Kuṭumiyāmalai / कुडुमियामलै) in a long time. It is a common failing, I think, we often overlook the value of the things close by and readily available.

Kudumiyamalai: A historical gem and a treasure of sculptures

Sikanatha temple, Kudumiyamalai | Pandian Ramaiah, 23 April 2007

Yet, Kudumiyamalai boasts a rick history, with Jain beds on its western side of the hillock believed to date back to 2nd century.

Similar to other natural caverns of Jains, the one here offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding landscape for several kilometers. Writer Jeyamohan believes that our minds will open upon seeing the wide vision of nature. The River Vellar and its banks are particularly picturesque from this vantage point.

One of the most memorable aspects of my village life during power cuts was the collective experience. We’d all emerge from our homes and instinctively glance towards the hilltop. If the light atop the hill remained dark, a sense of shared relaxation would settle in. At least, we were all in the same boat! It’s a little ironic that despite the decades that have passed since my birth, power cuts still occasionally disrupt life in my village.

On the eastern foothills lies a cave temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Near by, a structural temple, Sikakirisvara Temple, houses another Shiva shrine. The exact time of construction for this temple remains unknown. However M V Kiran, my ex-colleague who documented this place along with my ex-Boss, noted that most early Chola inscriptions are found in near by Melakkovil (another shine near by) and second prakaram. This suggests that the main shrine might have been remodeled during later periods. Nayaka too involved in development of this temple with beautifully sculpted pillars with intricate carvings.

Two of these sculptures, Rathi and Manmadan, are the focus of this post.

Rathi and Manmadan: A story of Love and Loss

Belief in Rathi and Manmadan, the Hindu god of love, extends back to Vedic period. The story of Kama (Manmadan)’s destruction in Shiva Purana is well-known. When Indra sought Manmadan’s help to awaken Lord Shiva from his medidation, Manmadan’s arrow of love angered Shiva.

Shiva opened his third eye and destroyed Manmadan. Though later revived, Manmadan was condemned to leave heaven and reside in the hears of all men in earth. Following her husband, Rathi too descended to earthly realm, dwelling within the heards of women.

Sculptures depicting Rathi and Manmadan are found throughout Tamil Nadu, but the one in Kudumiyamalai is particularly notable.

Rathi devi, Kudumiyamalai | Pandian Ramaiah, 23 April 2007
Kama / Manmada, Kudumiyamalai | Pandian Ramaiah, 23 April 2007

The damaged state of these sculptures is truly saddening. Imagine their beauty, if they were fully intact!

“What shall I do? Where can I go? What is it that the gods have done in making my husband a victim thus? They have called him here and destroyed him.”
Chapter 19 – Kama’s destruction by Siva

This lament of Rathi devi, upon death of Manmadan, echoes my own sorrow at the sight of these damaged sculptures.

Artist Silpy’s drawings offer a glimpse of their potential splendor.

Rathi of Kudumiyanmalai drawn by Artist Silpy
Manmadan in kudumiyanmalai, drawn by Artist Silpy

I am particularly fond of this Manmadan sculpture. He is depicted with a distinctly masculine physique and mustache, a feature that resembles Nayaka style.

The Javanese Connection: Wayang Kulit

I am fascrinated by the connection to Javanese culture, Wayang Kulit, a traditional shadow puppetry art form originating from Indonesia, especially Java and Bali, often draws themes from Indian epics and Purana-s. The story of Shiva and Manmadan is depicted in this puppet show – KAMAJAYA-KAMARATIH.

Google Translation of the post titled Filosofi Wayang Jawa: Kamajaya & Kamaratih, Lambang Kerukunan Pasangan (The Javanese Puppetry Philosophy: Kamajaya & Kamaratih, Symbols of Marital Harmony):

In Javanese puppetry, Batara Kamajaya and his wife, Batara Kamaratih are symbols of a harmonious couple. Both are handsome and beautiful and have the duty as the god of love in the puppet world. Known to be very harmonious, loving each other, and loyal to their partners. There is never a story of a dispute between the two.

It is said that one day, Batara Guru (Parameswara or Shiva) was meditating and suddenly heaven was shocked by an attack by a giant army sent by Prabu Nilarudraka which overwhelmed all the gods. The situation became increasingly critical, the gods then followed Batara Guru to wake him up from his hermitage. However, all efforts failed. Batara Guru remained steadfast in his meditation.

Batara Kamajaya then took the initiative to wake Batara Guru up using the Pancawisaya Arrow. If this arrow hits someone, it will create a feeling of love and arouse lust. The arrow was released and hit Batara Guru, immediately his meditation was cancelled and he woke up in a state of anger. From his third eye, a blue light appeared which immediately hit Batara Kamajaya and burned his body.

Knowing the death of Kamajaya, Batari Kamaratih asked to be killed by Batara Guru too so that she could follow her husband. Batara Guru, who was overcome with anger, then revived Batara Kamajaya using Tirta Amerta. However, because he had made a mistake, Batara Kamajaya was then sent to reside in the souls of men in the world. Meanwhile, Batari Kamaratih also came down and resided in the souls of every woman.

The two gods are tasked with uniting the souls of men and women into a pair of lovers or husband and wife who are equipped with love, affection, and harmonious relationships.

The story in Javanese puppet show resonates deeply. Batara Kamajaya and Batara Kamaratih embody a harmonious couple, fulfilling their duty as gods of love.

Batara Kamajaya, Java, 20th century, Asian Civilization Museum, Singapore

I am amazing to consider the interconnections of these cultures across vast distances. Kudumiyamalai in Tamil Nadu and Javanese shadow puppetry tradition – both reflecting the timeless story of Rathi and Manmadan.

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Kodumbalur – the land after losing its charm

Pray for it, let it be bestowed,
Wish for it, let it rain down like a snow.
Take a stand for what is right, and pure,
And the nectar of grace shall surely pour.

Water is a gift, a grace so divine,
Transforming barren land to liquid fine.
Out of its kindness, it softens stone,
Turning harsh earth to liquid all its own.

-unofficial translation of a part from Jeyamohan’s novel Kratham.

These are the descriptions about Varuna, the God of rain, by Jeyamohan. Getting wet in rains is a blessing. This a story of getting wet in summer rain.

We went for an interesting trip to saw 4 monuments.

Dilapidated Shiva temple, Pulvayal

Shikanatha Shiva temple, Kudumiyanmalai

Muvar Koil, Kodumbalur

Aivar Koil, Kodumbalur

Our first hop is Pulvayal. The temple is on the right side of Pudukkottai – to Manapparai road.

Siva temple, Pulvayal Photo (c) http://www.panoramio.com/user/6254896

You can find he temple right behind a school there. The half of the temple is damaged already. It is so pathetic to see the temples like this. There is a beautiful Shiva temple surrounded by parivara temples. Despite not being an worshipped temple, there were traces of viscous of lamp-oil. I am interested to see who that obedient devotee is.

From there, Kudumiyanmalai is not far. Due to summer, all the ponds on the way were either dried or close to dry already. A life size statue of Kangeyar welcomed us inside the temple. The 1000 pillared hall is renovated from its dangerous condition 20 years ago. The temple is at the foot of a massive rock.

Relieves of Nayanmar-s (c) pudukkottai.org

The rock has a fold on it, where 64 nayanmar bas relieves were carved. Annai and Ammai was seating on a bull at the centre.

Kodumbalur is close to 1 hour travel from Kudumiyanmalai. Kodumbalur has 3 archeological sites Muvar Koil, Aivar Koil and Muchukundevara koil. We visited two of them that day.

We started with Muvar Koil.

Muvar temple

Sanjay was reading the ASI board there which said ‘It was built by Boothi Vikrama Kesari, who is a chieftain of Sundara Chola.’

It was just a one liner. But it brought the timeline in our mind. Muvar temple is earlier than the famous Thanjavur Brihadisvara temple. People used to say these may be trials before the construction of Thanjavur temple.

The most beautiful one is Muvar koil, the temple-of-three! But we can see two temples only now. One is demolished. We saw the basements only. The garden was beautiful. Due to rains, it was so pleasant to visit that time. Sun took a short break, to allow us to visit the temple.

Rain water harvesting in Muvar Koil complex
Rain water harvesting
Way to Aivar koil after renovations

Aivar koil is a just a collection the basements of five temples. If it existed, it could be the most massive and beautiful temple complex in Kodumbalur. It is heart breaking to see the temple basement. What those invaders got by destroying art forms? treasure right.

Aivar Temple Complex in Rainy clouds. Must have been a massive structure. Cleanly destroyed and buried

There is a saying in Tamil for those who steal the properties of Siva temple, Sivan soththu kula naasam – ‘Shiva’s property is the destruction of clan’. Despite the condition of those invading countries even in 21st century, still the theft continues.

Pulvayal and Kudumiyanmalai were as pleasant as they were forty years ago.

It is a pleasant surprise to see the latest Kodumbalur monuments after the developments performed by Archeological Survey of India. They have an lushy lawn. There is a path made of stone slabs. Publications of ASI were also available. Entry fee is ₹15 per person.

Another interesting fact is, Kodumbalur was a capital of Irukkuvel-s. It is mere a village now. When Kodumbalur flourished, there is no Chennai. See the way time travels!

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