Kodumbalur

Kodumbalur (கொடும்பாளுர் / Koṭumpāḷūr / कोडुम्पाळूर्) is a hamlet near my birthplace. When something is so near and freely available, you won’t realize its value. This is a general global phenomenon. I am no exception.

It is historically important as it was the headquarters of the Irukkuvels, one of the chieftains of the Chola kingdom. In the popular novel Ponniyin Selvan, Vanathi, Princess of Kodumbalur, was a close associate of the powerful Chola princess Kundavai. She was in love with Arunmozhi Varman, also known as RajaRaja Chola.

According to the epic Cilappatikaram, the protagonists Kovalan and Kannaki crossed this place on their way from Uraiyur (modern-day Tiruchirapalli) – one of the Chola capitals – to Madurai, the Pandya capital. This epic names this place கொடும்பை நெடுங்குளக் கோட்டகம் (Koṭumpai Neṭuṅkuḷak Kōṭṭakam / कोडुम्पै नेडुंगुळक् कोट्टकम्).

Such a busy town is now just a village now. This place has three important archaeological sites:

The Muvar Kovil (Temple of Three),
The Aivar Kovil (Temple of Five),
The Mucukuntesvara Temple.

The Muvar Kovil temple enchants every viewer. It is older than the Thanjavur Brihadisvara Temple (or Big Temple).

But the focus of this post is one of the icons we can see at Kodumbalur: the Kalari Murti idol of Shiva.

The story goes like this: Shiva’s devotee Markandeya was supposed to die at the age of 16. Impressed by his deep devotion, Shiva wanted to help him by challenging Yama, the god of death. Shiva performed a ‘playful dance’ (களிநடனம்) on top of Yama, pushing him away and saving his devotee.

This sculpture at Kodumbalur is considered one of the finest examples of early Chola art and iconography. The representation of Shiva as Kalari Murti is in the first tier of the eastern niche of one of the remaining temples.

Kalari Murti is the first niche of the left photograph | 📸 (c) travel.bushavali.com

Kalari Murti, Kodumbalur, (c) https://puratattva.in/kodumbalur-glory-of-the-irukkuvels/

Look at the above picture. Shiva is shown in a dynamic, dancing posture, indicating a destructive attitude. However, killing Yama would stop deaths in the universe, destabilizing the equilibrium. Therefore, Shiva is careful not to push Yama to death. He is dancing on his back playfully. Note the smile on Shiva’s face and the horror on Yama’s face. This symbolizes Shiva’s victory over death.

The soft molding of his abdomen, thighs, and legs makes this sculpture unique. The compassion shown on Shiva’s face brings a smile to our faces too!

If you happen to travel to Tiruchi or Madurai, do not forget to visit this beautiful early chola temple. The same form of Shiva is common to see in other places too.

Kalantaka Shiva, Kailasanatha Temple, Kanchipuram. I found this photo on facebook.

Kalantaka Shiva, Gangai Konda Cholapuram, (c) the sculptor, photo (c) Rahul Naidu

For more reading-

வரலாற்றுச் சுவடுகளின் சின்னம் கொடும்பாளூர்! – Dinamani
Kodumbalur – Prof S Swaminathan, M V Kiran

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Pray for it, let it be bestowed,
Wish for it, let it rain down like a snow.
Take a stand for what is right, and pure,
And the nectar of grace shall surely pour.

Water is a gift, a grace so divine,
Transforming barren land to liquid fine.
Out of its kindness, it softens stone,
Turning harsh earth to liquid all its own.
-unofficial translation of a part from Jeyamohan’s novel Kratham.

These are the descriptions about Varuna, the God of rain, by Jeyamohan. Getting wet in rains is a blessing. This a story of getting wet in summer rain.

We went for an interesting trip to saw 4 monuments.

Dilapidated Shiva temple, Pulvayal

Shikanatha Shiva temple, Kudumiyanmalai

Muvar Koil, Kodumbalur

Aivar Koil, Kodumbalur

Our first hop is Pulvayal. The temple is on the right side of Pudukkottai – to Manapparai road.

Siva temple, Pulvayal Photo (c) http://www.panoramio.com/user/6254896

You can find he temple right behind a school there. The half of the temple is damaged already. It is so pathetic to see the temples like this. There is a beautiful Shiva temple surrounded by parivara temples. Despite not being an worshipped temple, there were traces of viscous of lamp-oil. I am interested to see who that obedient devotee is.

From there, Kudumiyanmalai is not far. Due to summer, all the ponds on the way were either dried or close to dry already. A life size statue of Kangeyar welcomed us inside the temple. The 1000 pillared hall is renovated from its dangerous condition 20 years ago. The temple is at the foot of a massive rock.

Relieves of Nayanmar-s *(c) pudukkottai.org*

The rock has a fold on it, where 64 nayanmar bas relieves were carved. Annai and Ammai was seating on a bull at the centre.

Kodumbalur is close to 1 hour travel from Kudumiyanmalai. Kodumbalur has 3 archeological sites Muvar Koil, Aivar Koil and Muchukundevara koil. We visited two of them that day.

We started with Muvar Koil.

Sanjay was reading the ASI board there which said ‘It was built by Boothi Vikrama Kesari, who is a chieftain of Sundara Chola.’

It was just a one liner. But it brought the timeline in our mind. Muvar temple is earlier than the famous Thanjavur Brihadisvara temple. People used to say these may be trials before the construction of Thanjavur temple.

The most beautiful one is Muvar koil, the temple-of-three! But we can see two temples only now. One is demolished. We saw the basements only. The garden was beautiful. Due to rains, it was so pleasant to visit that time. Sun took a short break, to allow us to visit the temple.

Rain water harvesting in Muvar Koil complex

Aivar koil is a just a collection the basements of five temples. If it existed, it could be the most massive and beautiful temple complex in Kodumbalur. It is heart breaking to see the temple basement. What those invaders got by destroying art forms? treasure right.

Aivar Temple Complex in Rainy clouds. Must have been a massive structure. Cleanly destroyed and buried

There is a saying in Tamil for those who steal the properties of Siva temple, Sivan soththu kula naasam – ‘Shiva’s property is the destruction of clan’. Despite the condition of those invading countries even in 21st century, still the theft continues.

Pulvayal and Kudumiyanmalai were as pleasant as they were forty years ago.

It is a pleasant surprise to see the latest Kodumbalur monuments after the developments performed by Archeological Survey of India. They have an lushy lawn. There is a path made of stone slabs. Publications of ASI were also available. Entry fee is ₹15 per person.

Another interesting fact is, Kodumbalur was a capital of Irukkuvel-s. It is mere a village now. When Kodumbalur flourished, there is no Chennai. See the way time travels!

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dwaraka

Kalari Murti of Kodumbalur

Kodumbalur – the land after losing its charm