Horsemen pillars of Vijayanagara/Nayaka

Sri Varadharaja Perumal Temple in Kanchipuram is popular for its exquisite architectural features, including the 100 Pillared Hall. When I went there for the first time, the shrine was closed as the lord Varadharaja is taking his afternoon nap. Until the temple opens, I was roaming around this hall.

from Sri Varadharaja Perumal Temple | Pandian Ramaiah 17 Sep 2006

I found intricately carved pillars, which depict horses and mystical creatures or Yalis ridden by warriors. Sadly, the mandapam was closed. I could not enjoy all the creative skills of artistry skills. These pillars are not only aesthetically wonderful but also showcase the advanced craftsmanship of the Vijayanagara era.

The 100(0) pillared mandapam, Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple, Kanchipuram | Pandian Ramaiah, 17 Sep 2006.

I understood that this 100 Pillared Hall is a significant part of the temple’s expansion during the Vijayanagara Empire’s reign. The carvings on the pillars include scenes from the depictions of Vishnu and his avatars. The nearby temple tank made my presence serene.

The Horse armour from Varadharaja Perumal Temple | Pandian Ramaiah, 17 Sep 2006

The horsemen pillars are typical style of Vijayanagara and Nayaka-s who are Vijayanagara’s chieftains. Typically such pillars elevate the temple’s status as a masterpiece of Vijayanagara architecture, reflecting the rich cultural and religious heritage of the region.

I wish to highlight two more places with pillars depicting horsemen –

  • Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam – The temple’s 1000 Pillared Hall features sculptures of rearing horses with riders exemplifying Vijayanagara artistry. The hall is a notable example of planned theatre-like structures, to gather devotees.
  • Shikakiriswara temple, Kudumiyamalai – I spoke about this temple in this series earlier. Similar to 100 pillard mandapam of Kanchipuram and 1000 pillared mandapam of Srirangam, there is a Anivetti-k-kal-mandapam contributed by Nayaka-s.

Let me quote from the documentation of Prof S Swaminathan and MV Kiran –

The portrayal here of figure of horsemen treading over the foot soldiers is of particular interest. One can see here weapons used respectively by the horseman and the foot soldiers and the method in which the foot soldiers defended themselves from the attacks of the horsemen.

Kudumiyamalai, SS, MVK

Horsemen pillar at Kudumiyamalai | Pandian Ramaiah, 23 ‎April ‎2007

All three temples share similarities in their architectural features: a hall with pillars adorned with riders on horse/mythical yali/other animals.

Additionally, I’d like to mention an artifact often highlighted during my museum tours: the Chettiar Doorway at the Indian Heritage Centre in Singapore.

Chettinad Door way, Indian Heritage Center, Singapore | Picture credit: indianheritage.gov.sg

This doorway is adorned with over 5000 carvings, including Ramayana, Vishnu riding on Garuda’s shoulders, Ganesha, Subramanya, Gajalakshmi and other motifs. On the side, we saw beautiful armours riding horses and Yali-s. It reflects the influence of Nayaka art on Chettinad architecture.

The door way, side view | Picture (c) arizonahandbook.com

Breathtaking, isn’t it?

While discussing South Indian temple architecture, it is essential to acknowledge the contributions of the Vijayanagara and Nayaka dynasties, particularly, Nayakas’ colossal sculptures. At first sight, it pins your mind with it majestic beauty. If you have the opportunity, visit these sites and share your experiences with me.

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Sadasiva of Elephanta and Cambodia

I have written about my day out to Elephanta earlier. I finished the panels of the main cave one by one. Finally I was standing before the striking colossal bas-relief of Trimurti Siva or Mahesa Murti Siva or Sadasiva.

Sadasiva or Trimurti Siva | Pandian Ramaiah, 1 Dec 2007

Sadasiva is considered as the highest form of Siva. People believe the concept originated from South Indian Shaiva Siddhanta. Sadasiva has five faces, that represents five holy tasks (panchakritya). Three faces are visible in Elephanta. The fourth and fifth is believed to be at the back.

Standing or sitting in front of this artifact is a different experience. You need to experience it.

The Portuguese, when they came to India, found a massive elephant structure here in the 18th century. As per Sachin KR Tiwari’s presentation, it looks to be they damaged and vandalized this cave and removed valuable inscriptions. I am thinking about similar complaints about a Dutch official who cut the head of the sculptures in Java. What we have now is what they left behind. What India is now is also a result of what they left behind.

Coming back, The hair of siva is elegantly carved with extensive details in jata-makuta (hair crown). The face of the Tatpurusha (the centre face) shows extreme peace.

The linga form, especially the mukha linga form represents Sadashiva. Now I understand why Indian heritage center in Singapore has kept the Mukha Linga infront of Sadasiva sculpture.

Sadasiva and Mukha Linga, Indian Heritage Center, Singapore|Photo (c)thesmartlocal.com

The Sadasiva you see in above is from Tamil Nadu. Yet, the one you see below is from Cambodia.

Bronze of Shiva as Sadashiva or Mahesha, late 12th – early 13th century, Cambodia. Collections of Asian Civilisations Museum. Image (c) roots.gov.sg

The face looks more south-east Asian one. Yet they absorbed the same concept and created this bronze with local art form. It shows the influence of Hinduism, particularly, Shaivism in the Khmer Empire during 11th or 12th centuries.

The world was highly connected, but the later decline of Indian influence in Southeast and East Asia is surprising.

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