Vikram & Betaal’s hegira to Yala national park

Note to fundamentalists: Loveable Hinduism had given its followers the freedom to look at good and bad of Both Rama and Ravana. I worship Rama by singing Arunachala Kavi’s ‘Ramanai kannara kandale‘. At the same time, I adore the sculptures of Ravana lifting Kailash in Siva temples. If you have a fundamentalist’s view of Hinduism and you refuse the freedom of a fiction writer, this post would not be suitable for you. Please stop reading this post. Defaming Ravana and underplaying his faith on Shaivism is an evil thought that harms Hinduism too.

I never wrote such notes to my blog posts. Some how the ‘religious weather’ of latest India force me to write it.

***

In the year of 2019, King Vikramaditya was in search of the betaal in the forests of Ella. There was a drumstick tree near the ‘Ashok Vatika’ garden. The naughty betaal rolled its tail on one of the branches and swinging back and forth and humming ‘naane varuven‘ (a ghost song in Tamil movie) song. It was busy hunting for the louse on its long hair. After it found a lice, it put it between the nails of two thumb fingers and crushed it. It appreciated itself with the word ‘besh‘ when the lice die with a sound ‘tip‘ and resumed its hunting.

Vikramaditya was dehydrated when he crossed Ravana Falls nearby. He jumped across the rocks and reached the falls at no time.

Water was gushing from a height. Rocks were dangerous and slippery due to centuries-old water flows. It was one of the widest falls in Sri Lanka. The waterfall had killed a lot of people. The water was too cold to rescue Vikramaditya from his fatigue.

இராவணா அருவி
Ravana Falls

Admiring the magnificent view of the falls, he offered handfuls of water to his ancestors. He held water in both hands and started drinking without wasting a drip of it. After getting rehydrated, he looked at the sky and thanked God for giving him such a gift. When he looked up, he saw the white betaal swinging on a tree on the slope of the hill.

He recollected all his energy and uphilled towards the tree eagerly, as if the British were so desperate in searching for other’s wealth in the previous centuries. Finally he reached the place and stood beneath the drumstick tree. He was so surprised that the face of the betaal resembled Thangamani’s. Betaal too exclaimed with surprise as the face of Vikramaditya looked like Rangamani.

Vikramaditya requested the betaal, “O, the charming betaal with long shiny hair! I have promised someone to bring you. Could you come with me?” The Thangamani agreed to go with Rangamani; sorry. Betaal happily agreed to go with Vikrama.

On the way down, there were two vanara-s (monkeys) jumping across the large pieces of rocks of Ravana falls. The betaal invited the vanara-s too by waving her hand. The face of the vanara-s resembled Junga and Bunga. While the water fall splashed the drips of water at all of them, they started their hegira to Yala National Park.

The two vanara-s 🙂 , Yala National Park
எல்ல
Leaving from Ella
Bye Bye Ella
Bye Bye Ella
Ella

“O Vikarama, the one with bald-fore-head, it is going be a long journey to Yala. 110 kilo meters. I’ll tell you a story. You won’t feel bored and tired in this long journey. At the end of the story, I’ll ask you a question. If you don’t answer me correctly, your head will be broken into thousand pieces.”. Vikramaditya agreed. Both vanara-s screamed with joy and clapped their hands.

எல்ல
The little Adam’s peak, Ella
The Little Adam’s Peak, Ella.

“Long long ago, so long ago, there lived a king called Dasaratha. He ruled the Koshala kingdom of Northern part of India…”.

Betaal narrated the long tale of Ramayana spontaneously with its screeching voice. Vanara-s and Vikramaditya were listening carefully with many ‘hmm’ and ‘umm’ syllables.

Ella
Ella

They came to the plains from a beautiful hill town in just half an hour’s time. The road was great.

Towards the plains

They crossed the town of Wellawaya. It was a special day for Buddhists. A lot of people were gathered over there. They saw children as Buddhist disciples, who went into the city in search of food.

வெல்லவாய
Wellawaya

The people considered them as messengers of Buddha. So they offered them food and fruit. Vikrama and Betaal understood that those childhood Buddha monks would find food for the old monks in the monastery.

நீண்ட பயணம்
The long journey
The Long Journey
The long journey
ella to yala 02
Back in plains
Back in plains
ella to yala 07
Back in plains

On the way they saw the milestones for the famous-ghost-airport of Hambantota, built by China. The Vikramaditya murmured “misfortune..” when they crossed such mile stones.

The long journey
The long journey

They stopped for a while. Betaal was feeling nausea, that time!

Vikaramaditya found something on the hedges, while he was roaming around. He pointed at a climber and asked Betaal, “Is this not ‘gundu mani‘ (Rosary pea) plant?” (We have Thangamani and Rangamani already. Now this is Gundu mani 🙂 ) .

Gundu mani

Betaal nodded its head. The elder vanara shrieked “Yes, I saw it my brother’s school”. Vikarama too, joined the happy conversation.

“Yes, we used to have this along the fencing at the backside of our palace”

Betaal smiled and said “Not only beautiful, but also poisonous!”. Two vanara-s did not understand it’s meaning and scratched their head with their black-baby-fingers.

They reached Tissamaharama after a long journey. Lankans call this town as Tissa, like we call Tiruchirappalli as Tiruchi! They went to a restaurant for lunch. They filled their tummies at this restaurant! Betaal and vanara-s asked for chapati and curry. Vikramaditya asked for rice & curry. Alas! he ended up with chapatis as the vanara-s stole his rice plate.

yala 01
Rice and Curry and Chapatis

By the time they finished their lunch, Betaal had finished its Ramayana tale as well.

Betaal said “O, Vikarama, the one with a pot like tummy, answer me now. Between Rama and Ravana, who will reach swarga (enlightenment)?”. It was combing its hair with its long and scary fingers.

Vikramaditya, who resembled Rangamani’s face, did not waste a minute. He said “Sri Rama is a God. He is eka pathni vrata (husband of one wife). He offered enlightenment to Ahalya. He won asura-s and saved deva-s. No doubt. It is lord Sri Rama who will get into swarga, no doubt”.

Ravana cave – It is believed that Sita was kept as a prisoner here – (c) unsplash

Betaal replied “O, Vikrama, Meenakshi (another name of Surpanakha) was a native girl with a beautiful name and a prettier face. She found Rama loveable. She proposed him. What he should have done? Either accept or reject her. What right does he has to abuse a girl verbally and severe her nose? How to send him to swarga?.”

Betaal continued “O, Vikrama, The bonding between a husband and wife is based on hope. When the hope diminishes, the relationship has no meaning, my dear! What right he had, to push Sita into fire-pit to prove her purity? Will it not be hot? If Sita’s conduct was not good, she should have a relationship in Mithila (Sita’s native) itself. Did he prove his purity by getting down into the same fire-pit? Take in your case, if your wife stays in stranger’s home for protection, will you suspect her? Does swarga like that?”

Betaal justified “O Vikarama, When his sister was harmed by Rama, Ravana took out his sword. It is expected from him as a brother and as a King.”

Betaal added “O Vikarama, As per Tamil poet Kamban, Ravana did not even tough Sita when he abducted her. He never misbehaved with her. At least, he did not even cut Sita’s nose to take revenge of the barbaric act by Rama. Sita was rescued as pure as she was earlier. If Ravana had bad conduct, why we have Ravana’s sculpture at all Siva temples?”

Betaal announced its judgement “O Vikarama, Soldiers who died at the battlefields reach the swarga by the rule of thumb. Duryodhana reached Swarga, when Bhima reached Narka. Based on these facts, Ravana will reach enlightenment. You are wrong!”

The two vanara-s vanished in the air. Vikramaditya’s head – which resembled the head of Rangamani – was broken into 1000 pieces. Thangamani woke up and screamed in sorrow and fear. Rangamani – who was drinking water with his capital-O-shaped mouth – startled and poured the water into his nostrils.

He coughed heavily while his eyes were filled with tears! He asked Thangamani “What happened, Thangamani? Why did you shout”. It took sometime for Thangamani that it was a dream. At last she realized that she was at the restaurant with his boring, yet, lovely hubby.

It was the most expensive meal they had ever had in Sri Lanka. It costs more than that of a Colombo star hotel restaurant! Rangamani’s purse lost its mass.

They parked their car at the restaurant itself and took a private jeep. The speedy jeep did not had any shock absorbers. Thangamani’s spinal cord was shaking like the New Delhi jerked after seeing the Chinese army at its Himalayan border. But she had velour – like the Indian army broke the neck of Chinese soldiers – to see a leopard. The rest of the day was spent in the dry bush forest called ‘Yala National Park’.

Towards Yala National Park
யால தேசிய வனம் | Yala National Park
Yala National Park

After this gate, you will start offroading. You can get a glimpse of it in this video!

Offroading, Yala national park

They saw elephants, crocodiles, birds, etc. at a short distance. It was like a live National Geographic Wild.

Yala National Park
Yala National park
Yala National Park
Yala National Park
yala national park 01
Yala National Park
யால தேசிய வனம் | Yala National Park
A Wild boar and a crocodile, Yala National Park

Junga’s main goal was to look at the leopard: and yawn in front of it. But it did not materialize.

Yala National Park
yala national park 03
Yala National Park

You will soon be surrounded by animals. The forest will be beautiful until you see a leopard.

yala national park 04
Yala National Park

That was a dry forest with thorny bushes and plants. The weather was just opposite to that of Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, and Ella. They sweat with high humidity due to near by costal area. The road and the bushes on both sides were dusty. They got darshan from Sri Ganesa.

யால தேசிய வனம் | Yala National Park
Yala National Park
O you cutie pie, Yala National Park
O you, the massive!
Beauty King and Queen, Yala National Park
Yala National Park
The resting place at Yala National Park, which was damaged by 2004 tsunami

The sun hid behind the silhouette of dark trees and far-away mountains, when they left the park.

They went to their hotel after buying curd (yoghurt) and bananas for dinner.

The white rice from the restaurant of the hotel, mixed with the local curd satisfied them. You must try Sri Lankan yogurt, dear readers! After washing your hands, you will find it sticky due to its dense fatty nature. Junga wondered “It is a very good food. Excellent taste!”.

Thangamani took a bath before her dinner. She was sitting leisurely after dinner and combed her wet hair with her fingers. She wondered, if her fingers resembled those of the Betaal.

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***

Gritty walk to 9 arch bridge

Rangamani asked the troops, “Shall we trek to the nine arch bridge? Ready?”

ஒன்பது கண் பாலத்திற்கு, Way to 9 arch bridge, எல்ல
Way to 9 arch bridge, Ella

There are several routes to get to the bridge. There was a foot path created by the usage of locals and cattles. They trekked through it across the jungle.

Ella srilanka 09
Way to 9 arch bridge, Ella
Way to 9 arch bridge, Ella

Junga and Bunga took it as their adventure to walk through the field, canals, the overgrown trees, the small stream that crossed along their path, the clear water flowing through it, The brightness of the pebbles under the water, the crawling leeches and the bushes on the side..

Ella Srilanka 24
Way to 9 arch bridge, Ella
Ella Srilanka 23
Way to 9 arch bridge, Ella

The bridge was nice. It has a colonial fairy tale too. British got stuck while building this. A Sri Lankan engineer solved that problem. It was a proud moment for them.

You can look down slightly into the valley near by! You can walk across the bridge to enjoy the lovely breeze.

Junga ran on the train track! It was time for the train to arrive. Thangamani was shouting at him to come back!

It was a humid walk. Tender coconuts helped them to hydrate themselves. Rangamani stopped with two coconuts to show off himself as a table-manners-aware person.

The place was scenic. You can shoot nice photographs from different locations. Starting from the peak, all the way until the deep valley, you can trek and capture your pleasant moments.

ஒன்பது கண் பாலம், 9 Arch Bridge, எல்ல
9 arch bridge, Ella
Ella srilanka 10
9 arch bridge, Ella

“See guys, we see two disjointed hills- massive in structure- equal in power – will never get along. But a brick and mortar connects them. Humans are also like that. If a bridge satisfies their ego, they can mingle with others”. Rangamani appreciated himself ‘Wow. What a visionary thought it was!’. “What if it got a crack, my dear?” Thangamani refuted. Ranga did not expect a it. He said “Yah. That is another visionary thought” and laughed pathetically.

Ella srilanka 12
9 arch bridge, Ella

They walked across the bridge and waited for a train. The couple shared many other ‘visionary’ statements under the shade of vadam tree! Finally the train arrived. It was like a moving fairy in brown gown. It has a annoying noise like a demon with a broken throat. They waited almost for an hour to see the ‘blessed view’!

If you walk to this bridge, take 1000 or 1500 ml of water per head. Else you may be dehydrated.

There was a waiting area (or photo shoot area) on the side. There was place to sit and take photographs. There was a small potato field like in Nuwara Eliya.

They went to a local restaurant for lunch. There was no crowd. The road looked deserted even the previous day, when they came from the railway station. Many of the restaurants had empty tables. They ordered vegetarian rice and curry. In addition, they ordered curd/yoghurt separately. We have been served a delicious meal with lentil curry, coconut sambal, potato fritters, multi-veggie-curry, and papad. The meal came late. Probably they prepared it upon a confirmed order. They wanted to relax as well, m after a hike to little adam’s peak and trek to the bridge. Junga commented in relief, “The meal is good. Not like morning idly!!”. He was right. It was a tasty and healthy full-meal.

Rice & Curry, எல்ல
Rice & Curry, Ella

After the full meals, they wanted to rest well. They took away white rice, curd, and coconut sambal in the evening as well.

On that quiet lazy night, while the lights of the distant mountain town flickered, and the trains passed through the mountain in darkness, cicadas shrilled. Rangamani and Thangamani asked Junga and Bunga to join them for moon-meal.

Ella srilanka 16

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Footsteps to Little Adam’s Peak

“Thangamani! is it not strange to play Kanda Sashti Kavacham, at this odd time, at an odd place?” Rangamani asked.

The lights were on at early hours of day 5, 08-Jun-2019. Rangamani’s family was getting ready in a hurry. The previous day ended with a sweet ending as the train trip was nice and the dinner was delicious.

They ate and slept well. The mild cold weather and the good food offered them a phenomenal quality of sleep. Ella is less cold when compared to that of Nuwara Eliya. Because its elevation is considerably lesser. It had a pleasant weather like winter-time-Tamilnadu.

எல்ல
Ella

They stayed in a hotel with a small garden in the middle of a hill. The garden had various pots, in which different varieties of plants – starting from roses to cactus – were grown.

எல்ல

Rangamani put on his walking trousers in a hurry. Junga and Bunga were brushing in expedition. Their half opened eyes showed how sleepy there were. They were getting ready to hike in Sri Padha or Siriya Sivanoli Patham or Little Adams Peak. Was there a connection between Adam and this little peak in Sri Lanka? I don’t think so. May be a gimmick to treacle European travelers. If Yuan goes high tomorrow, they may conduct a naming ceremony to name it like Little Dongling!

“Why not? You can play Illaiyaraja, if you want. Did I say No?” Thangamani smiled at her husband.

She became an early bird after marriage. Usually she likes to do things early in the morning. She will be in good mood until her peak-hour-circus starts.

Little Adams Peak / little sivan oli patham is 2,234m high. It was close to 5am then. Rangamani and Tushara planned to reach the peak before the sun rises. They were on their march. Set and …. go!

The trek route had off-roads and steps. It was dark everywhere. Junga felt that his brother Bunga would be scared. But he was enthusiastic. He walked energetically with Tushara with the help of cell phone torch, which teared down the darkness.

The town has not yet woken up. Except the sound of their slipping sandals and some strange sounds surrounding the tea plantations, the entire hill maintained a haunting silence.

விடிகாலை நடைப் பயிற்சி, சிறிய சிவனொலி பாதம், எல்ல
Morning walk, Little Adams peak/small Shivanoli patham, Ella

“The sun will rise on time, isn’t it?” Thangamani asked anxiously as she was concerned about their leisurely walk.

“Usually it will come on time. You want to meet him today. hmm…. Not sure if he will change his mind.” Rangamani replied in a sharp hissing voice. She nudged him in return. Their food step count increased gradually.

It was a lonely track for Jeeps or trucks. It took a long time to reach the top of the peak. All of them were breathing and sweating heavily. Sometimes they need to help each other to reach the height. What they saw were amazing scenes! They filled their vision with stack of blue mountains, their nostrils with a fresh breeze.

கதிரெழுகை, சிறிய சிவனொலி பாதம், little adams peak, எல்ல
Sunrise, Little Adams peak/small Shivanoli patham, Ella

There was a Buddha statue, should have been added much recently. There was a shrine for folk deities as well. They were waiting for another delightful sunrise. Tushara appreciated that it was a good decision to hike in the morning.

When you go there, do not forget your walking shoes. A fall may cause worst bruises due to sloppy land and hard stems of tea plant.

சிறிய சிவனொலி பாதம், little adams peak, எல்ல
Sunrise, Little Adams peak/small Shivanoli patham, Ella

A couple of foreigners joined them. Tushara mentioned that there were many private drones flying by and taking pictures during peak seasons. But it was calm without any fuss, due to the effect of Easter bombing.

வெடிகுண்டுகள் செய்த வேலை. கைவிடப்பட்ட சுற்றுலா தளங்கள், எல்ல
Effect of Easter Bombing, Abandoned tourist attractions at Ella

They shot some photos before they started their downhill. On the way back, there were no one to confront them, except an elderly Thai couple.

‘Flying Ravana’ was an adventure game that starts from Ella. You can fly on a rope. $20/head. Rangamani folded his cuff and tried to go in. “What you think about yourself? Bear grylls ah?“ Thangamani shrieked at her crazy hubby to put him back on track.

“Flying Ravana”

“Walking through these tea plantations is nice, isn’t it” Junga exclaimed. Rangamani cleared his throat. On realizing that he was ready to deliver a lecture, Thangamani increased her pace and moved far away from him.

“Tea plantations have their own worst side of history, my son. See there!” Rangamani’s fingers pointed at the estate residential houses.

There were Tamil settlements in the quarters of tea plantations. Tamil temples were observed. Tamil film songs were heard. Few boys and girls were rushing towards the town in school uniforms.

Rangamani had bizarred body language due to his uncontrolled emotions. He said “They were imported as slaves from India to work in tea estates, until they die. They are treated as third class citizens in this country. At the same time, India is not ready to take them back. They became frail and vulnerable under the pressure of those supervisors and estate owners. There was a line in a novel – The tea is red, because of their blood” and gasped. Junga did not know that his father can talk non-stop like a RJ!

சிறிய சிவனொலி பாதம், little adams peak. எல்ல
Little Adams peak/small Shivanoli patham, Ella

“Junga, Come here”. Junga heard his mom’s call and ran towards her. Your guess is true! She tried to rescue her son from Ranga’s noble ideals!

Junga was activated after they finished the trek. He felt hungry as a starved elephant. He took a shower even before someone instructed him, rushed downstairs, expecting some food to munch. He found Idlies as part of their breakfast buffet. “hurrayyyy” his mind rejoiced. He took the idlis on his plate and found a seat. Junga thought he was blessed that day to see idlis. “Hey Junga, You were expecting Chapatis in Sri Lanka. But  you got idlies dear!” His conscience rumbled.

Rangamani suggested to him to consume local food wherever he goes. When Idly is in front, why should we listen to a boring father? With much eagerness, he tried to slice the idly with a spoon and fork. It was a failed attempt. It was like a hardened cake in the name of idly. The idly was sliding like a beautiful Russian athlete of winter Olympics in his plate.

Junga changed his technique. He stabbed the Idly on its head with a fork like a skilled murderer, dissected it into two pieces with a knife. His lips were piled up in utmost concentration. Two became four. Four became eight. He rejoiced, he accomplished something. Then he took one piece, dipped it into the chutney, and pushed it into his mouth. It was sliding inside his mouth here and there. Thangamani and Rangamani were loading themselves with bread and juices on the other side. He could not even start!

He lost his patience. He expected a soft idly like the feather of a quill. But what he felt was a split rock.  With much disappointment, he conducted a closing ceremony to his addiction to the idlis. He went ahead with bread and butter as usual.

Finally, a son accepted his father’s suggestion. When you follow something, you get knowledge. When you encounter something, you get wisdom!

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Elevated rails to Ella

Bunga was busy in the garden after a brief photoshoot. He was the younger of the two. He liked toy cars for a long time like any other boy. He bought it at Ramboda.

It was a wooden replica of Sri Lankan Auto rickshaw/tuk-tuk with a black top. It was not worth the money. The jelled joints came out the next day itself. Bunga was upset. Rangamani does not know how to fix it. Tushara tied it with a rubber band. Despite a simple solution, the auto-rickshaw appeared as good as fixed. There was a bright smile on Bunga’s face.

Their next hop would be at Ella, another hilly town located 60 KMs away. This stretch of the travel would be covered by a mountain journey. This is one of the scenic train routes in the world as per Sri Lankan tourist information. That was similar to Mettupalayam to Ooty heritage rail route of India. They reached the nearby railway station at Nanu Oya town to catch the afternoon train.

Nuwara Eliya to Nanu Oya
Nuwara Eliya to Nanu Oya

The short downhill dropped them at the station. Rangamani bought a few snacks in the shop outside the station. The owner was a Tamilian.

Shop keeper: “Are you coming from oor (India)?”

Rangamani: “Yes”

Shop keeper: “I visited our oor as well. I went to Trichy, Madurai. What’s your native place, brother?”

Rangamani: “Pudukkottai”

Shop keeper: “I see. Don’t know where is it”.

Rangamani: “Do you know Kattabomman? King of Pudukkottai betrayed him. Now you know…”

Shop keeper: “Our place does not differ from that. Same betrayal. Same story”

Rangamani knew what he meant. Those who know about the racial unrest between Sinhalese and Sri Lankan Tamils can understand it. He did not want to continue with that discussion. Instead, he asked the shop keeper “How much is this coconut biscuit?”

நானு ஓயா
Nanu Oya

The railway station resembled the railway station of Mettupalayam, Tamilnadu, India. Colonial style boards, deserted rail tracks…

நானு ஓயா ரயில் நிலையம் | Nany Oya Railway Station
நானு ஓயா ரயில் நிலையம் | Nany Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station
Nanu Oya Railway Station

They were waiting for the train. There comes a shocking news. The elder boy Junga alerted Ranga that Bunga had missed his toy train in the garden of the lodge itself.

Nuwara Eliya 10 Nanu Oya Station 4

Alas, what bad news it was! It was so sad to see the disappointment on baby Bunga’s face. It is too far to go back. They can not catch the train. Rangamani told Bunga to ignore it and continue the journey. He assured him to get a new toy later. Bunga accepted in half a mind. But it was a sad moment for them. That tragedy was blown up in the air as the train arrived.

கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி வண்டி
Elevated rail

That train journey took three to four hours. It took its passengers through lush green tea gardens, hill tops, valleys, and floating clouds.

கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி காமாட்சி வண்டி
Elevated rail
கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி காமாட்சி வண்டி
கரகர வண்டி காமாட்சி காமாட்சி வண்டி
Elevated rail
மலை வழித்தடம்
Mountain route

Tushara had booked a first class ticket for them. This train looked to be Chinese made as per the public documentation available on internet. There were seven boxes running with kada-kada sound of Indian trains. The windows are bigger enough to enjoy the sceneries and get excited.

Tourists post plenty of dangerously photographed pictures on Instagram. But few of them met with accidents. During their trip, a European lady had scratched her leg and created a scene.

Vendors sell sliced pineapple strips, mango, butter corn, freshly prepared rice, and curry, chilli bajjies etc. We can see new items at every station.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=QAtCC_VSCQ8%3Fversion%3D3%26rel%3D1%26showsearch%3D0%26showinfo%3D1%26iv_load_policy%3D1%26fs%3D1%26hl%3Den%26autohide%3D2%26wmode%3Dtransparent

The entire route was covered with clouds! You will find beautiful hills and dense jungle intersected by tea estates, hillocks, old bridges, waterfalls and hamlets. When the train passed through the tracks, local kids cheered at the level crossings.

The travel took three and a half hours. Tushara came by road and welcomed them at Ella station. As they climbed into the van, Junga saw the toy auto lying in the seat. He shrieked at his brother, “Hey Bunga, here is your auto-rickshaw”. Tushara went the extra mile to go back to the lodge at Nuwara Eliya to take the toy car. It was such a touching moment for Rangamani. He thanked his chauffeur many times.

எல்ல ரயில் நிலையம் | Ella Railway Station
Ella Railway Station

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