Have you ever tasted a South Indian Filter Coffee at Matunga? That was Jaggu’s plan for 1st Dec 2007!
Jaggu noted down the address of Mani’s lunch home. He boarded the train early in the morning of that bright Sunday. He took the whole stretch from Borivali to Church Gate, from where he switched to Central line to reach Matunga.
Before reaching Matunga, he boarded the wrong train, which went to Matunga West. Again he blamed his fate and came back!
Kamalhassan fans are emotionally connected with this place because of his 80’s film Nayagan (नायागन). After getting down, he was taken over by the evident south Indian aroma like Tamil movie songs, posters, poo-kadai (flower shops). He enquired a shopkeeper about the way to reach Mani’s.
“Bhaiya, Mani Iyer Hotel kithar hai”
“ரைட்ல போய் பர்ஸ்ட் லெப்ல திரும்புங்க.” (Go right and take the first left) he responded in Tamil. Jaggu and the shop keeper laughed together!
Jaggu resumed his walk through the flower shops. He ordered for a full meal on banana leaf with sambar, vathal-kuzhambu, Rasam, Payasam, and curd followed by a filter coffee.
What else? He had sound sleep back at the guest house. The flower shops, the rosary garlands hanging on the sticks, and the fingers tying the flowers filled his mind through out the day. “Velu Nayakkar” (The hero of Nayagan movie) was the only item missing!
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The travelogue starts at Mannar & Co. “Jaggu, You are leaving to Mumbai tonight. You need to report at Dahisar Materials Co, tomorrow morning. You will be there for a month to collect the scrap materials. Collect your tickets and guest house details from admin department” Jaggu’s manager issued orders before he went out of office. Jaggu knew it was his ‘single tea & masal vadai’ time.
Jaggu was summoned by the admin team. He was so excited when he received his travel tickets. It was his first airplane visit.
Jaggu used to tell his friend Tingu multiple times, “When will we fly in airplane?”, when they returned from the Andhra mess after their tummy-tearing-lunch. Tingu used to pacify him “What’s wrong with our Pallavan express and Karaikudi passenger. They have attached toilet also.. That is enough for us, da”.
“hmm.. Will the pilot open the toilet waste d?”.
Jaggu used to get clarified by his philosopher Tingu.
As Jaggu was not sure if it was a genuine reply or a parody, he kept quiet and walked silently to their bachelor’s paradise.
“So what, if they open it, it will be at the size of paneer (rose water) drop. We may nod our head to agree to it, as if we accept paneer spray” answered Tingu.
It was a quarter past five. Jaggu was still roaming around the rusted iron bars.
His colleague Gundu Mani shouted at him “Jagguu, What time is your flight?”
“9”
“Then, what are you doing here with your dirty uniform. You should be in airport at least one or two hours before.”
“Is it so?”
“Jaggu, don’t be a makku*. You need few hours to go back home and pack your luggage. You need to leave now”. Gundu Mani was like that. He will try to portray himself as a wise man by calling others a makku at a gathering. But at that time, it was a valid alert.
Jaggu packed his lunch box and inserted it into his wire-basket. He was on his way on his BSA cycle already. His wire-basket was hanging on his handle-bar.
* makku – fool.
***
Jaggu was copying, what his co-passenger did. Was it what he did during his board exams! He had just arrived at the domestic terminus of Chennai fifteen minutes ago by local train. He was munching a groundnut packet, when the train entered Trissulam station. When he aligned his shoulder bag on one side and the luggage on the other side, the groundnuts jumped out and scattered on the floor.
Boarding the plane, occupying a window seat, sitting near a Mumbai-based entrepreneur and gossiping with her in butler English all the way until Mumbai are all irrelevant to this travelogue! It was a full moon day. With a talkative girl by his side and the moon splashing through the glass window, that evening should have been his memorable one. But his heart was pumping hard, as if he were vaccinated with mRNA covid19 drug. Because he should find his residence, take a nap, and report to the company the next morning. He was not sure if he could manage well. Because of his 0 knowledge with HINDI!
***
When he came out of the airport, he felt – like a car that ran out of gas – emotionally. Later he understood, it was a unique flavor of our Indian airports. Whenever we come out of Indian railway stations and airports, we may feel like somebody pushed us outside the safety circle into a jungle of cheats and touts. Getting bullied by the union members of taxi drivers and auto drivers is part of our national heritage, too.
Well, there was a black and yellow taxi. Jaggu saw Super Star Rajinikanth driving these kind of taxis in his 80’s movie ‘Padikathavan‘. The driver read his address slip and said, “I know”. In addition to the driver, he had a teenager beside. It was over 12 midnight! The place looked deserted like an empty Goshala. He hoped he could rely on that driver. He had no other choices as well.
Representational picture
Jaggu looked at the highway sign boards carefully and tried to memorize them. In case, if there was a fight and the driver left him stranded on the highway, he needs some signs to recall his way back. Yes. He used to think like 007 often. Such a great idea! It looked to be the highway to Gujarat. ‘Who the hell is he? He is driving so far. The highway looks like an anaconda. Will he drop me in Gujarat?’ He was anxious about his taxi driver.
Jaggy lost his patience and asked is driver “How much time will it take, Bhaiya?”. Bhaiya, Beti, Didi are the few Hindi words he learnt from Hindi movies. It was amazing. He is able to learn such words, apart from worshiping his dream girl Kajol.
He replied Jaggu in some language – Was it Marathi or Hindi? How does it make a difference for Jaggu, who doesn’t know both.
He could not appreciate Mumbai’s gloomy night and gleamy highway sign boards. The reliable driver from Mumbai dropped him at the guest house at 1am. Jaggu was grateful to him. Borivali is 16 kilometers from Santa Cruz! Not all taxi/auto drivers are righteous like him.
***
Jaggu rented an auto-rickshaw to go to the company the next day. Soon he started reading Hindi letters on Mumbai’s public transport. What would a Dravidian fanatic think about a Tamilian who is reading Hindi? Whatever, he had started to spell Bo-Ri-Va-Li.. then Dha-hi-sa-r. When he was so proud of himself for his half-pedal Hindi, something crashed his ego brutally. He boarded into West Borivali bus instead of the East.
What else could he do? He got off in half way and lingered while blaming his fate. When we are happy, we boost our ego. When it is not, we say it is our fate. How selfish we were.
But that’s where Ganpati Bappa kept a twist in his screenplay! He came across a local Travels in the middle of his walk-back to Borivali East. He eagerly booked for the Mumbai local trip. It was his weekend plan! If Tingu was there, he would have reiterated his philosophy “Nothing will move without His wish”!
***
That was of the type of “Look here. This is Marina Beach. There will be a sea”. But there was no better way to get acquainted with the city. A ‘divine chariot’ in green color started from Borivali East before the sun rose, went straight to India Gate, and continued its journey to Siddhi Vinayagar Temple, Mahalakshmi Mandir, Malabar Hill, Wankhede Stadium, Marine Drive, Juhu Beach.
Co-passengers are from different states of India. The bus was like a kadhambam garland (a mix of different types of flowers and leaves). Yes, that’s the color of India.
Shooting spot of nee oru kathal sangeethamChatrapathi Sivaji MuseumMarine driveKamala Nehru park, Malabar HillKamala Nehru park, Malabar HillView of marine drive from Malabar HillThe world was shocked when Kalpana Chawla lost her life when the space craft crashed. Nehru Science Center had a panel dedicated to her. It attracted many visitors. The name Kalpana Chawla is pronounced again in the #BlogchatterA2Z campaign. Here is the one from chinmayee creations.Dynamics explanation, Nehru Science CentreEntrance, Nehru Science Centre
A Gujarati man was sitting beside Jaggu. They are all of the same age.
He yearned “South Indians have embraced English and advanced in information technology. Hindi is not a bar for them. Look at the North Indians. They still follow Hindi and pull us back”.
Jaggu responded to him “It was a political decision at that time. The decision was pushed by the political party. Even if there was Hindi, we would have mastered it as well. Situation is different now. The quality of Government school education is degrading day by day, private sectors are embracing CBSE. Hindi will enter anyway. But will it make any difference, I do not know. Future may be with English. Neither Tamil nor Hindi”.
He agreed “It may be. But pushing the language is useless. They can not succeed.”
Jaggu winked while saying “But that’s what China did. We criticize India while pointing at the rise of China. Are we ready to make similar sacrifices made by Chinese?”. The discussion ended when the bus stopped at Mahalakshmi Mandir.
It was post noon time. Jaggu went inside a tea shop as he felt hungry. He met two Coimbatoreans there! Chatting in a Tea shop is a ‘Tamil-national-heritage’, isn’t it? They had a quick discussion before they departed – a hi and a bye!
Near ChurchGateHare krishna mandir, JuhuSunset at Juhu
The sunset at Juhu beach blessed all of us before we retreated to Borivali.
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Fanatic readers worship Greece as the land of great philosophers. 90’s college pass-outs may remember it as the land of Olympics 2004. I remember it as the abode of Greek angel – Irene Skiliva 🙂 . For those who are not aware, she was a Greek model and beauty queen who was crowned Miss World 1996 in India.
This story starts on my journey to Athens.
Mercy
It was an afternoon flight. I had some cereals before boarding. I received my food plate while cruising. Alas, I got the non-veg meal as I expected. I tried to modify my food options before boarding. The airline did not allow that (Or I did not know how to do it!). My request to replace it to a veg/vegan meal bounced back in vain.
The supervisor came to attend to my request. She expressed her grief for not fulfilling my request. I enquired for any food, that can be purchased. It was a full flight. They did not have any such choice. I begged her to see if she could find anything. She was not hopeful and went back.
My tummy fierced in hunger. The aroma of food and the sweet sounds of the spoon and fork enhanced the fuselage. I was sitting like the angry rishi Durvasa cursing my fate for every clock tick.
Arrival sections of the airport usually won’t have any eateries. As it was my first visit, I didn’t know how long I needed to wait to get my next course of meal. I was calculating when the next meal.
I heard an ‘excuse me’. The same supervisor lady, offered me a food plate with macaroni and eggplants. She might have found some options from kid meals, I thought. However, the hunger, the food and the merciful staff are still memorable. I was not sure, how many times I thanked her.
Cordial
My first bus trip to Athens was so packed. It was a peak-hour trip in the evening. They did not have an option to pay fare to get a ticket. One of my project mates offered me a couple of ticket cards. He came all the way until the bus stop, pushed me inside the right bus, which went via my hotel.
The trolleybus was running in electricity. The trolley polls – which looked like the long horns of Indian rhinoceros – touched the two lines of the overhead electric lines.
I was not sure what to do with the tickets inside the bus. It was so packed like a Mumbai local train. I showed the ticket to fellow passengers and asked them, “Where to tap this ticket?”. He explained to me in detail, but in Greek. But I found the ticket punch machine based on his hand-gestures. It was close to another exit. It was like a hundi of Bhadrakali Amman Temple. One of the fellow passengers helped me to insert my ticket. It was supposed to punch my machine and give it back. (I understand they use cashless payments using credit cards now) But it spit my ticket back. From the Greek he spoke, I understood that my ticket was invalid. I had one more card to save my life. It failed too.
I was so close to my bus stop. I enquired if there was a way to pay for the ticket. It was possible. But I need to go to the driver’s cubicle. I was on the rear side of a vestibule bus, which is taking more passengers than its capacity. The man who helped to punch my tickets suggested, “You just go. No problem. It is free trip. free”. Finally I got down as a ‘With-out‘. * With-out – It is the keyword for ticketless travel in Chennai.
A travel don’t have to be rules-based. Co-life travelers like the flight attendant who took effort to search for a food, the project mate who offered tickets, the helpful passengers make it merciful & cordial.
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The prophet Muhammad travelled from Mecca to Medina with his followers to escape persecution. The same punya-bhoomi had some crooks too. It is about my travel with a cheat on the same land.
It was the prophet’s blessing to clear a sluggish immigration queue. The officer asked something. I could not understand anything. I repeatedly told him, I didn’t understand any of his words. He started uttering the same words at high volume. I was wondering, did he think I was deaf? However, he cleared me at last.
I was a bit nervous as most of the people left when I finished my immigration. The baggage claim area looked like a haunted house. My luggage was rolling around the belt way as a lost-child in Mariamman temple thiruvizha (a festival). I came across a lonely place called the arrival hall.
I was blinking as I could not find a way to get into a taxi. I felt like I was in Chennai airport. If anyone wants to move all alone in Chennai airport, that would be one of his worst decisions of his life. On the other side, we’ll certainly feel the ‘aroma’ of Chennai airport as soon as they come out. Riyadh is no way less than it.
I enquired one gentleman there about the way to the taxi stand. He gave me a surprising story, like all taxis are gone already. What an idiot I am. I believed it too. (Mistake 1) Because, I was stranded at midnight in Chennai without bus/auto/taxi! That may be the reason .
The ‘gentleman’ told me that he himself was a taxi driver. He told me the fare in advance. I accepted it too (Mistake 2). Then he took me to the parking area, not to the taxi stand. I felt something was not correct; still I followed him (Mistake 3). It was not a taxi; it was his own private car. I got in (Mistake 4). He tried to bait me. I avoided. He suggested a nice place to eat. He ‘offered me’ an opportunity to eat dinner with him. He suggested to me a world-class place to drink. I did not bite them. He had his innate capacity to aim at the pockets of duffers like me.
Then I throw my bait. I told him that I had no money and I needed to collect money from my partner – who was waiting at the hotel – to pay him. Of course, it was not a 100% agmark lie. It is not 100% ISI truth also. He bit my bait :-). He sounded as if confused. All of a sudden, he doubted if I’d pay him as I accepted.
He did not talk much after that. He dropped me in the hotel. The hotel said, it was not the right place. They had another branch. This ‘gentleman’ dropped me in the wrong branch. He told me it was near by and suggested I walk. He urged me to pay him. I refused. In turn, I asked him to drop me in the right branch.
He touted more money to drop in the other branch, which I refused. I became the assailant then (Not sure if it is a mistake or smart move) “Either drop me at the right branch. else, drop me again at airport”. As more people were involved in the scene, I was ready to call my partner from the hotel’s phone.
Finally, he dropped me in the right place. I paid him what I accepted. During my return journey, I paid half of what I paid to that gentle man.
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Thai Mango Sticky Rice – One of the popular Thai dishes. But we used to have rice with mango in our house in Tamilnadu. I heard Kannadiga-s have this food habit too. Alphonso and Banganapalli mangoes will overtake Thai mango in taste.Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, Bangkok
If you are bored with the usual malls, you may need to try Asiatique night market. One of the open markets of the world – like Pondy bazaar of Chennai – but in a massive scale.
How to go?
It is located on the banks of Chao Phraya river. There seems to be a boat facility. But my guys took me on the BTS sky train (Bangkok metro). You need to get down at Saphan Taksin station. If you are not sure, easy to take a taxi.
Walkable distance from Saphan Taksin station
Why Asiatique?
You will find a variety of stalls, eateries in ‘multiple rows and columns’.
Do you mathi kettan solai (the forest of the lost person)? It is located in Kodaikanal forests. If you lose your way, you can neither reach your target nor come back. Asiatique is like that. If you miss your co-visitor, it is difficult to find him/her back. You need to know the building, row and shop number to trace.
This is food paradise. This is also a shopper’s paradise. You will find many shops – souvenir shops, text tiles, eateries, local food, international food, entertainment hubs – what else do you need?
Do you ask me what did I purchase? Nothing.. I had good food :D.
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There was a scenic train route from Galle to Colombo. But Rangamani’s troops took the Southern Expressway to reach Colombo in two hours. That highway connected Hambantota, Matara and Galle with Colombo. It passed through lush spice gardens.
E01 expressway
They exit from the highway at Battaramulla, a suburb of Colombo. The vehicle was stopped at a supermarket upon Thangamani’s request. She bought a container made of coconut shell as a souvenir. “If it is in a super market, it is a souvenir. If it lies on the street, it is a kottachi (Tamil name for coconut shell). So the value is based on where we are!” Rangamani’s philosophy did not disturb Thangamani. She was used to it. So she was busy in hunting for next prey!
Colombo
Then they went to the Millennium Restaurant in the Sri Jayawardenapura Kotte area of Colombo for lunch. It was late in the noon. The food was excellent. That was the most delicious South Indian food, since they started their trip to Sri Lanka. It looked and tasted good. There was no cook when they ordered for another Dosa. Cook went out as the work was done. “Oh no. Since the day they reached Galle, there was an evil eye on their tummies!” Rangamani expressed his grief.
War Memorial, ColomboColomboBandaranaike Memorial International Conference Hall, Colombo.
Gangaramaya Vihara is the last attraction of that trip. The trip was started in Kattukalai Selva Vinayakar temple at Kandy. It ended at this temple. It was super clean. The temple looked like a collection of antiques.
Gangaramaya vihara, Colombo
It is said that the hair of the Buddha is preserved. In this temple, antiques are displayed as well. The ground floor of the temple hosts old cars, horse cart carriages and many antique carriages. The temple was so divine. But due to the travel, Thangamani was not in a mood for a deep worship. Kids were tired as well.
Gangaramaya vihara, ColomboGangaramaya vihara, ColomboGangaramaya vihara, ColomboGangaramaya vihara, ColomboYasodara, Rahula watching Buddha on the streets, A relief at Gangaramaya vihara, Colombo
The long trip and the local trip inside Colombo pushed them into bed. Before that they swallowed couple of plates of tasty pulao.
Suitcases were packed and locked. Hand bags were placed above them. Travel documents were ready. Mobile phones were charged. The family took everything and rushed towards the restaurant for their breakfast. The journey plan was completed. They were ready to return back.
10 minutes passed, 20 minutes passed, 40 minutes passed. There was no sign of breakfast! “Was it a breakfast or break-slow?” Ranga tried to crack a joke. Ramada, Colombo gave them a good dinner on time, but delayed the breakfast like anything! Despite he asked few times, the kingly guests and their kids left the hotel with empty stomach, as it was getting late. It was horrible for Rangamani to ask the kids to leave the dining table, after they took their seats!
Removing the negatives, it was a good trip.
So called the Star hotel hospitality of Colombo might have forgotten to feed them. But Junga’s patti (grandma) was ready with the noon meal in India. Wherever we go, we are bound to our mother and mother country. India’s gates are open, always.
Junga’s eyes fluttered with tears as he looked at the fruits and breads for breakfast on the 8th day of the trip 11 Jun 2019, after a starving for a night .
The hotel he stayed in Galle was nothing special. There was no parking. The TV was faulty. The A/C timer did not work. The staff members had gone on leave. The kitchen was closed. So there was no food obviously. There were no shops outside too. For a vegan/vegetarian, Galle’s food market is a godforsaken place.
They purchased some fruits on the way to Nuwara Eliya. They managed with the same after their long trip from Gataragama the previous day.
The long trip started from Kathirkamam/Kataragama temple. Before that, the younger chap Bunga was searching for a toy-earth-mover at the shops near the temple. Thangamani was searching for a picture of ‘Kathirkamam Murugan’. Due to the assault on tourism industry due to Easter Bombing, most of the shops at Kathirkamam/Kataragama temple were closed. Very few shop owners opened their shops with their blanched faces. One akka made business with Bunga. But Thangamani did not get what she want.
Kataragama – Galle Highway
After blessed by Kadirkamam Kandan, they started their 4 hour journey to Galle .
It was like the two lane bypass road in Pudukkottai. The road was scenic, as it cut through many lakes, rivers, ponds and farm fields.
Hambantota Port
On the way to Galle, they passed through the port of Hambantota. On hearing the word Hambantota, Junga acted as if he was in deep sleep. Because Rangamani and Junga talked a lot about that port and debt trap diplomacy in Singapore. Junga knows that if Ranga opens his mouth about this topic, he will keep on orating like a suvishesha prasangakan. He does not want to get intoxicated by the worldly pleasures of his father.
But Rangamani did not mind. He started as usual. “British offered loans to the rulers of India before colonization. Rajah of Chandragiri approved lands to build St George Fort in a coastal hamlet ChennaRayan Pattinam (Chennai). Finally it became the bastion for East Indian Company. My son, after many centuries, the history is getting repeated in Sri Lanka.”
“Is history like a beach-horse?” asked Junga. (Beach horse will walk for some distance with a guest and it will retreat. It will again repeat with another guest.)
“Ha ha. Nice comparison. In a way, that’s true. Hambantota is ‘a China inside Sri Lanka’. As part the belt and road initiative, China considers this port as important. This port is completely under Chinese control.” Ranga might have repeated the same sentence for 1000th time. But he did not mind. He said it for the 1001th time, while looking at the four lanes stretch of the highway.
Hambantota
That was a grandly built port. They saw the new cranes, with the Indian ocean as its background. Rangamani talked a lot like a Diwali cracker, when the vehicle crossed the port. Unheard of that, Junga continued to act if as he was sleeping.
But Thangamani bite the bait. She wondered, “Darling, you talk too much about this port. But it remains locked. ayo there is a cow on the road.. Is this port closed for the day?”. Junga pinched his mam to signal her to keep quiet.
Hambantota port
Rangamani’s face was shining as the summer sunlight of Chennai. He found an audience. He replied her with thrusted eye balls, shaking head and waving hands.
“Thangamani, that is what makes the matter more serious. The port and the nearby airport and infrastructure are world popular. They swallowed enormous amount of money, but it did not give returns. So they are still ghost towns. See the cow!! Sri Lankan rulers were blamed to push their country to the debt by building such non-performing-assets and finally offering the lands, infrastructures to foreign countries in return.”
Thangamani realized that her hubby – with all his gestures – looked terrific like the gigantic Agora Veerabhadra statue of Madurai Meenakshi temple.
The Trade CentreThe portThe airport
Ranga described with utmost sadness, “See Darling, Colombo port, Colombo airport is so close to Hambantota. There was no real demand in the market to build a parallel facilities. A business without demand is a loss. At the same time, it brings an eastern power to Indian Ocean. Just because the eastern power is here, western power came here too. Sri Lankan rulers transformed a silent ocean into a another Sri Lanka. With this inefficient ruling, they ask international organizations to expand their sea space more.”
Ranga’s concerns are not completely exaggerated. Effectively, this is what happened in Sri Lanka in 2022.
2022 protests due to failed economy – Picture (c) DW
Note: This article is not written by an expert in Sri Lankan politics. This is based on a general perception of dept trap.
Weeraketiya – Matara – Galle scenic highway
When Thangamani closed his mouth finally, the van crossed the next city, Weeraketiya. That was the hometown of Rajapaksas. From there, their journey became even more beautiful. Roaring seashore on the left; villages, forests, and rivers on the right side.
Tushara told that it was an ancient gem land – ‘Ratnagiri‘. Precious stones was dug up from the earth.
Weeraketiya – Matara RoadMatara
Galle
Finally they reached the seashore town Galle. Bunga was shouting on one side as he was afraid of sea. He maintained a social distance from Indian ocean.
GalleGalle
Junga was shouting on the other side. “What da?” Rangamani got distracted from his attempt to convince Bunga to dip his legs in water. he screamed in air “Amma is afraid to get in”.
Rangamani keep Bunga to his shoulders and went near Thangamani. He said “See Thangamani.. We came for…” Thanamani understood that he is ready to advice. So she interrupted immediately… “Come on hubby.. I come already”. If needed, she is ready to jump into the ocean, than listening to his mann ki baat.
Galle
There comes the starving night with disturbed sleep in an haunted inn.
The family went to beach again, after they get up. Tushara might be searching for them. They never went anywhere without him. He came there to supervise their safety, as the beach was desolated. Such a kind man.
Rangamani belched heavily after a tasty breakfast with idiyappam, coconut sambal, and fresh cut-fruits. The service personnel – who was cleaning the swimming pool – stumbled and fell inside the pool. Unaware of that, Ranga started to thrust the bread slices into the oval-shaped-aperture of his face!
Thangamani wondered, if his face resembled Hanuman’s, when he chewed some part of the bread by keeping the remaining parts of the break on both sides of the cheeks. Eventually the backlogs of bread stored in his container-cheeks were processed, followed by juice or water. Day 7 – 10 Jun 2019, began like that.
The hotel was located close to the Yala National Park and the Kathirkamam (Kataragama) Kandan Temple. Usually some of the Indians will pack and take away the free breakfast provided at the hotel. Air India crew takes away buffet food in boxes, said UK hotel. Do not do it in India and abroad. It is not allowed.
Thangamani requested the Chandrika hotel staff to pack some Idiappam and coconut sambal for their younger kid Bunga. She was not sure if the Bunga would get suitable food that day. They did not hesitate. They packed immediately. They refused to accept payment, although Rangamani insisted. So Rangamani and Thangamani want to express their gratitude once again. The packed food helped the kid during their long travel from Kathirkamam to Galle.
Thangamani was the devotee of all Gods. She had special reservations for the infant Kandan (Baby Murugan). The previous evening, Rangamani told her that the Kathirkamam temple was just 20 KMs away.
The couple appealed to Tushara to see if his company could amend their travel itinerary to include that one also. He spoke to his management and they too agreed. Ranga asked about the variation in the cost. However, Blue Lanka Tours has offered it at no cost. Thanks to Tushara, Prameela and the management of Blue Lanka Tours.
Thangamani was overwhelmed. She said “It is the Sri Lankan Kandan had ordered us to visit him.”
Indians must visit is Kathirkamam. Although this temple is small, it is a beautiful and ancient temple. You can not see the thirumeni (idol) of Lord Murugan. You may see the screen with the glittering image of Kandan. The priest will perform rites / pujas on its behind. “People can only see the main deity once a year” Tushara mentioned.
The impact of Buddhism was evident there. The rituals alienated them. There is a temple in Singapore that follows Sri Lankan Tamil type of worshipping. It would be classic. The worshipping method at Kathirkamam looks to be non-native. There was a shrine for the Buddha. Vishnu and Brahma were the guardian deities there. We saw this in Kandy too. (See: Buddha Tooth Temple Kandy). With the divine kingini sound of the bells, the puja gave Thangamani immense pleasure. The pumpkin sambar rice – the prasadam – gave Rangamani the enlightenment.
Note to fundamentalists: Loveable Hinduism had given its followers the freedom to look at good and bad of Both Rama and Ravana. I worship Rama by singing Arunachala Kavi’s ‘Ramanai kannara kandale‘. At the same time, I adore the sculptures of Ravana lifting Kailash in Siva temples. If you have a fundamentalist’s view of Hinduism and you refuse the freedom of a fiction writer, this post would not be suitable for you. Please stop reading this post. Defaming Ravana and underplaying his faith on Shaivism is an evil thought that harms Hinduism too.
I never wrote such notes to my blog posts. Some how the ‘religious weather’ of latest India force me to write it.
***
In the year of 2019, King Vikramaditya was in search of the betaal in the forests of Ella. There was a drumstick tree near the ‘Ashok Vatika’ garden. The naughty betaal rolled its tail on one of the branches and swinging back and forth and humming ‘naane varuven‘ (a ghost song in Tamil movie) song. It was busy hunting for the louse on its long hair. After it found a lice, it put it between the nails of two thumb fingers and crushed it. It appreciated itself with the word ‘besh‘ when the lice die with a sound ‘tip‘ and resumed its hunting.
Vikramaditya was dehydrated when he crossed Ravana Falls nearby. He jumped across the rocks and reached the falls at no time.
Water was gushing from a height. Rocks were dangerous and slippery due to centuries-old water flows. It was one of the widest falls in Sri Lanka. The waterfall had killed a lot of people. The water was too cold to rescue Vikramaditya from his fatigue.
Ravana Falls
Admiring the magnificent view of the falls, he offered handfuls of water to his ancestors. He held water in both hands and started drinking without wasting a drip of it. After getting rehydrated, he looked at the sky and thanked God for giving him such a gift. When he looked up, he saw the white betaal swinging on a tree on the slope of the hill.
He recollected all his energy and uphilled towards the tree eagerly, as if the British were so desperate in searching for other’s wealth in the previous centuries. Finally he reached the place and stood beneath the drumstick tree. He was so surprised that the face of the betaal resembled Thangamani’s. Betaal too exclaimed with surprise as the face of Vikramaditya looked like Rangamani.
Vikramaditya requested the betaal, “O, the charming betaal with long shiny hair! I have promised someone to bring you. Could you come with me?” The Thangamani agreed to go with Rangamani; sorry. Betaal happily agreed to go with Vikrama.
On the way down, there were two vanara-s (monkeys) jumping across the large pieces of rocks of Ravana falls. The betaal invited the vanara-s too by waving her hand. The face of the vanara-s resembled Junga and Bunga. While the water fall splashed the drips of water at all of them, they started their hegira to Yala National Park.
The two vanara-s 🙂 , Yala National ParkLeaving from EllaBye Bye EllaBye Bye EllaElla
“O Vikarama, the one with bald-fore-head, it is going be a long journey to Yala. 110 kilo meters. I’ll tell you a story. You won’t feel bored and tired in this long journey. At the end of the story, I’ll ask you a question. If you don’t answer me correctly, your head will be broken into thousand pieces.”. Vikramaditya agreed. Both vanara-s screamed with joy and clapped their hands.
The little Adam’s peak, EllaThe Little Adam’s Peak, Ella.
“Long long ago, so long ago, there lived a king called Dasaratha. He ruled the Koshala kingdom of Northern part of India…”.
Betaal narrated the long tale of Ramayana spontaneously with its screeching voice. Vanara-s and Vikramaditya were listening carefully with many ‘hmm’ and ‘umm’ syllables.
EllaElla
They came to the plains from a beautiful hill town in just half an hour’s time. The road was great.
Towards the plains
They crossed the town of Wellawaya. It was a special day for Buddhists. A lot of people were gathered over there. They saw children as Buddhist disciples, who went into the city in search of food.
Wellawaya
The people considered them as messengers of Buddha. So they offered them food and fruit. Vikrama and Betaal understood that those childhood Buddha monks would find food for the old monks in the monastery.
The long journeyThe Long JourneyThe long journeyBack in plainsBack in plainsBack in plains
On the way they saw the milestones for the famous-ghost-airport of Hambantota, built by China. The Vikramaditya murmured “misfortune..” when they crossed such mile stones.
The long journeyThe long journey
They stopped for a while. Betaal was feeling nausea, that time!
Vikaramaditya found something on the hedges, while he was roaming around. He pointed at a climber and asked Betaal, “Is this not ‘gundu mani‘ (Rosary pea) plant?” (We have Thangamani and Rangamani already. Now this is Gundu mani 🙂 ) .
Gundu mani
Betaal nodded its head. The elder vanara shrieked “Yes, I saw it my brother’s school”. Vikarama too, joined the happy conversation.
“Yes, we used to have this along the fencing at the backside of our palace”
Betaal smiled and said “Not only beautiful, but also poisonous!”. Two vanara-s did not understand it’s meaning and scratched their head with their black-baby-fingers.
They reached Tissamaharama after a long journey. Lankans call this town as Tissa, like we call Tiruchirappalli as Tiruchi! They went to a restaurant for lunch. They filled their tummies at this restaurant! Betaal and vanara-s asked for chapati and curry. Vikramaditya asked for rice & curry. Alas! he ended up with chapatis as the vanara-s stole his rice plate.
Rice and Curry and Chapatis
By the time they finished their lunch, Betaal had finished its Ramayana tale as well.
Betaal said “O, Vikarama, the one with a pot like tummy, answer me now. Between Rama and Ravana, who will reach swarga (enlightenment)?”. It was combing its hair with its long and scary fingers.
Vikramaditya, who resembled Rangamani’s face, did not waste a minute. He said “Sri Rama is a God. He is eka pathni vrata (husband of one wife). He offered enlightenment to Ahalya. He won asura-s and saved deva-s. No doubt. It is lord Sri Rama who will get into swarga, no doubt”.
Ravana cave – It is believed that Sita was kept as a prisoner here – (c) unsplash
Betaal replied “O, Vikrama, Meenakshi (another name of Surpanakha) was a native girl with a beautiful name and a prettier face. She found Rama loveable. She proposed him. What he should have done? Either accept or reject her. What right does he has to abuse a girl verbally and severe her nose? How to send him to swarga?.”
Betaal continued “O, Vikrama, The bonding between a husband and wife is based on hope. When the hope diminishes, the relationship has no meaning, my dear! What right he had, to push Sita into fire-pit to prove her purity? Will it not be hot? If Sita’s conduct was not good, she should have a relationship in Mithila (Sita’s native) itself. Did he prove his purity by getting down into the same fire-pit? Take in your case, if your wife stays in stranger’s home for protection, will you suspect her? Does swarga like that?”
Betaal justified “O Vikarama, When his sister was harmed by Rama, Ravana took out his sword. It is expected from him as a brother and as a King.”
Betaal added “O Vikarama, As per Tamil poet Kamban, Ravana did not even tough Sita when he abducted her. He never misbehaved with her. At least, he did not even cut Sita’s nose to take revenge of the barbaric act by Rama. Sita was rescued as pure as she was earlier. If Ravana had bad conduct, why we have Ravana’s sculpture at all Siva temples?”
Betaal announced its judgement “O Vikarama, Soldiers who died at the battlefields reach the swarga by the rule of thumb. Duryodhana reached Swarga, when Bhima reached Narka. Based on these facts, Ravana will reach enlightenment. You are wrong!”
The two vanara-s vanished in the air. Vikramaditya’s head – which resembled the head of Rangamani – was broken into 1000 pieces. Thangamani woke up and screamed in sorrow and fear. Rangamani – who was drinking water with his capital-O-shaped mouth – startled and poured the water into his nostrils.
He coughed heavily while his eyes were filled with tears! He asked Thangamani “What happened, Thangamani? Why did you shout”. It took sometime for Thangamani that it was a dream. At last she realized that she was at the restaurant with his boring, yet, lovely hubby.
It was the most expensive meal they had ever had in Sri Lanka. It costs more than that of a Colombo star hotel restaurant! Rangamani’s purse lost its mass.
They parked their car at the restaurant itself and took a private jeep. The speedy jeep did not had any shock absorbers. Thangamani’s spinal cord was shaking like the New Delhi jerked after seeing the Chinese army at its Himalayan border. But she had velour – like the Indian army broke the neck of Chinese soldiers – to see a leopard. The rest of the day was spent in the dry bush forest called ‘Yala National Park’.
Towards Yala National ParkYala National Park
After this gate, you will start offroading. You can get a glimpse of it in this video!
Offroading, Yala national park
They saw elephants, crocodiles, birds, etc. at a short distance. It was like a live National Geographic Wild.
Yala National ParkYala National parkYala National ParkYala National ParkYala National ParkA Wild boar and a crocodile, Yala National Park
Junga’s main goal was to look at the leopard: and yawn in front of it. But it did not materialize.
Yala National ParkYala National Park
You will soon be surrounded by animals. The forest will be beautiful until you see a leopard.
Yala National Park
That was a dry forest with thorny bushes and plants. The weather was just opposite to that of Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, and Ella. They sweat with high humidity due to near by costal area. The road and the bushes on both sides were dusty. They got darshan from Sri Ganesa.
Yala National ParkO you cutie pie, Yala National ParkO you, the massive!Beauty King and Queen, Yala National ParkYala National ParkThe resting place at Yala National Park, which was damaged by 2004 tsunami
The sun hid behind the silhouette of dark trees and far-away mountains, when they left the park.
They went to their hotel after buying curd (yoghurt) and bananas for dinner.
The white rice from the restaurant of the hotel, mixed with the local curd satisfied them. You must try Sri Lankan yogurt, dear readers! After washing your hands, you will find it sticky due to its dense fatty nature. Junga wondered “It is a very good food. Excellent taste!”.
Thangamani took a bath before her dinner. She was sitting leisurely after dinner and combed her wet hair with her fingers. She wondered, if her fingers resembled those of the Betaal.
Rangamani asked the troops, “Shall we trek to the nine arch bridge? Ready?”
Way to 9 arch bridge, Ella
There are several routes to get to the bridge. There was a foot path created by the usage of locals and cattles. They trekked through it across the jungle.
Way to 9 arch bridge, EllaWay to 9 arch bridge, Ella
Junga and Bunga took it as their adventure to walk through the field, canals, the overgrown trees, the small stream that crossed along their path, the clear water flowing through it, The brightness of the pebbles under the water, the crawling leeches and the bushes on the side..
Way to 9 arch bridge, EllaWay to 9 arch bridge, Ella
The bridge was nice. It has a colonial fairy tale too. British got stuck while building this. A Sri Lankan engineer solved that problem. It was a proud moment for them.
You can look down slightly into the valley near by! You can walk across the bridge to enjoy the lovely breeze.
Junga ran on the train track! It was time for the train to arrive. Thangamani was shouting at him to come back!
It was a humid walk. Tender coconuts helped them to hydrate themselves. Rangamani stopped with two coconuts to show off himself as a table-manners-aware person.
The place was scenic. You can shoot nice photographs from different locations. Starting from the peak, all the way until the deep valley, you can trek and capture your pleasant moments.
9 arch bridge, Ella9 arch bridge, Ella
“See guys, we see two disjointed hills- massive in structure- equal in power – will never get along. But a brick and mortar connects them. Humans are also like that. If a bridge satisfies their ego, they can mingle with others”. Rangamani appreciated himself ‘Wow. What a visionary thought it was!’. “What if it got a crack, my dear?” Thangamani refuted. Ranga did not expect a it. He said “Yah. That is another visionary thought” and laughed pathetically.
9 arch bridge, Ella
They walked across the bridge and waited for a train. The couple shared many other ‘visionary’ statements under the shade of vadam tree! Finally the train arrived. It was like a moving fairy in brown gown. It has a annoying noise like a demon with a broken throat. They waited almost for an hour to see the ‘blessed view’!
If you walk to this bridge, take 1000 or 1500 ml of water per head. Else you may be dehydrated.
There was a waiting area (or photo shoot area) on the side. There was place to sit and take photographs. There was a small potato field like in Nuwara Eliya.
They went to a local restaurant for lunch. There was no crowd. The road looked deserted even the previous day, when they came from the railway station. Many of the restaurants had empty tables. They ordered vegetarian rice and curry. In addition, they ordered curd/yoghurt separately. We have been served a delicious meal with lentil curry, coconut sambal, potato fritters, multi-veggie-curry, and papad. The meal came late. Probably they prepared it upon a confirmed order. They wanted to relax as well, m after a hike to little adam’s peak and trek to the bridge. Junga commented in relief, “The meal is good. Not like morning idly!!”. He was right. It was a tasty and healthy full-meal.
Rice & Curry, Ella
After the full meals, they wanted to rest well. They took away white rice, curd, and coconut sambal in the evening as well.
On that quiet lazy night, while the lights of the distant mountain town flickered, and the trains passed through the mountain in darkness, cicadas shrilled. Rangamani and Thangamani asked Junga and Bunga to join them for moon-meal.
